Have you given a thought to what you are wearing right now? Was it intentionally bought together? What’s your aesthetic? Are you someone who leans on the classic side of fashion and comfort or is open to trendier and bolder style? If your outfit were to speak, what would it tell about you?
Mekhala Renaissance: A Fad or Here to Stay?
While we’re often told not to judge a book by its cover, clothing can reveal much about a person, especially when it comes to traditional attire. For the Nagas, the distinct identities of each tribe come alive through their unique and vibrant clothing, which serves as a powerful symbol of heritage and pride. We’re known for our gorgeous designs and bold colors but it is rare to see people walking around in their everyday life or even on special occasions with a touch of their roots; this perception begs the question: what has made us like this?
Historically, the push for English education and Western ideals dates back to Lord Macaulay’s ambition to create “Indians in blood and color, but English in taste, opinions, morals, and intellect.” This colonial intention, combined with the arrival of Christianity and its views of traditional practices as “pagan,” fundamentally reshaped indigenous values and led to a pervasive idolization of Western culture. This transformation has fostered an identity crisis, particularly among Naga youths, who find themselves caught between their inherited culture and an imported set of ideals.
Yet, a subtle cultural revival is emerging. Traditional clothing has begun to take its place in daily lives. Now wearing traditional attire amongst the younger people, specially to the school and college going children and even working individuals—a shift from its previous practice of keeping it for Sunday services or special occasions, can be seen. This new renaissance or rebirth comes from the support of various groups, institutions, and individuals who are beginning to appreciate the richness of our tradition and culture.
The Mekhala, a traditional wrap-around, is worn by Naga women. This woven, unstitched cloth ranges from simple patterns to elaborate designs embodies more than fashion. For instance, in Rengma Naga parlance, Anonthsű or Jonyuphi shawl reflects tribal identity, social status, and gender roles. Reserved for those who have performed the “Feast of Merit,” these shawls represent honor and achievement, with four stripes designated for men and three for women. For unmarried or ordinary individuals, wearing these items remained taboo. Likewise, every type of shawl or mekhalas typically serves a unique purpose and is designated for specific occasions—such as births, weddings, funerals, and even everyday wear. This variety reflects the rich traditions and customs that vary from tribe to tribe. While a more egalitarian outlook today may lead to the relaxation of these strict conditions, it is concerning that the historical significance and purpose of these garments are being forgotten along with them.
As we move towards a modern society, it is essential to acknowledge and preserve the stories and meanings behind these traditional attires. However, events such as the Hornbill Festival and trends like #MekhalaWednesday brings a renewed interest in cultural heritage. Influential figures in Nagaland, such as “Mekhala Mama” on social media, have helped spark curiosity among youth and it is truly encouraging. However, one must question the depth of this interest, are these initiatives fostering a lasting respect for tradition, do the young people really know or are curious about the value and history that they carry or is this practice superficial and fleeting?
What must one do to actually let this positive spark not be blown out? It goes beyond the superficiality of clothes but it’s deeply rooted in daily practices and outlook in life. To sustain this, we must integrate cultural practices into daily life. Starting at home, families can speak indigenous languages, participate in traditional festivals, share passed down folktales and other traditional practices such as cuisines, arts and crafts, etc.
To strengthen this connection, collaboration among stakeholders and individuals is essential. Schools should integrate more cultural education and programs, with additional support such as providing scholarships with focus on Naga heritage studies and its related aspects.
We need to normalize the wearing of traditional clothing, as many individuals hesitate to do so out of fear of being judged or perceived as odd. Traditional attire should be regarded as appropriate for everyday events, such as work, college, and school—when permitted. By making traditional clothing a regular part of our lives, we can celebrate and preserve our cultural identity while fostering a greater appreciation for diversity in our communities. Other alternatives like open discussions about cultural identity, facilitated through workshops or online forums, can foster a lasting commitment to preserving traditions.
Modern technologies—such as music, media, theater, and exhibitions—should be harnessed to promote traditional culture and history among younger generations. By using these platforms creatively, we can present cultural narratives in engaging and accessible ways. For instance, digital storytelling can bring traditional tales to life, while social media campaigns can highlight the significance of cultural practices and events.
There’s an undeniable appreciation of traditional music integrated into contemporary genres, for example, with the huge success of popular Naga artists like Colored Keys, Tetseo Sisters and so on. Furthermore, organizing theater performances that showcase historical events or traditional folklore can provide immersive experiences that deepen understanding and appreciation of one’s heritage. With the renewed appreciation for our own culture, people all over the world are starting to show interest and joy in learning about it. It is like killing two birds with one stone!
In the end, the choice is ours: will this Mekhala Renaissance be a fleeting trend, or will we embrace it as a lasting legacy that bridges tradition and modernity for generations to come.
Degree of Thought is a weekly community column initiated by Tetso College in partnership with The Morung Express. Degree of Thought will delve into the social, cultural, political and educational issues around us. The views expressed here do not reflect the opinion of the institution. Tetso College is a NAAC Accredited UGC recognised Commerce and Arts College. The editorial team includes Chubamenla, Asst. Professor, Dept. of English and Rinsit Sareo, Asst. Manager, IT, Media & Communications.
For feedback or comments please email: dot@tetsocollege.org